Thursday, December 10, 2009

Lace Insertion

Stitching lace insertion to fabric is the first technique that we learn when I teach heirloom sewing by machine. This is not a strong application of lace and best used on collars, yokes, or sleeves.
Lace insertion is the lace that is straight on both edges. If one side of the lace feels rougher than the other, this is the wrong side of the lace. I have used a contrasting color thread for the photos. Use a fine machine thread that matches the lace and a 60/8 size machine needle.

Starch and press the lace and fabric. Using a wash-away marker, mark the lace placement lines on the fabric. Set the sewing machine on straight stitch length of 2.0 and stitch close to the edge of the lace down both sides. I prefer to stitch from top to bottom each time to prevent the fabric and lace from distorting.

Turn the fabric to the wrong side, and carefully cut the fabric between the stitching lines, being careful not to cut the lace. Press the fabric away from the lace.

On the right side of the fabric, using a zigzag stitch of 2.0 width and 0.7 length, stitch over the previous stitching line. The stitch should "zig" into the lace and "zag" into the fabric.

On the wrong side of the fabric, using blunt scissors, trim away the excess fabric.

Starch and press the fabric and lace before continuing with your garment.
I first started doing heirloom sewing about 15 years ago while doing custom sewing for "Joy's of Smocking" in Decatur, AL. I still love working with lace and fabric!

9 comments:

  1. thank you for telling and showing with so good pics so clearly! That is exactly what I need now to finish a pillow with a selfknitted lace-braid!

    I found this post via pinterest.

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  2. Great tutorial. Thanks.
    Cennetta

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  3. Thank you for the fantastic tutorial!! The depth with which you went into helped me greatly! Thanks so much!
    Teri

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  4. Thanks for this tutorial....it's clear and interesting.

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  5. Thank you so much, I'm using this technique for a university assignment, and these instructions have made it SO easy! Got it right first time! THANK YOU

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  6. Thanks for an extraordinary idea! Amazing!

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  7. Ilove everything about lace and heirloom sewing, thank you for the tutorial very clear and easy to understand, thanks again

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  8. Great example of an entredeux.

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